All good things must come to an end. We're sitting in a Burger King at the Auckland airport, waiting to board our flight to San Francisco in just under 2 hours. Today has been a bit of a culinary disappointment: in addition to eating BK as our final NZ meal (we can't find anything else in this terminal), our favorite Japanese restaurant in Queenstown was closed for the NZ Labour Day holiday, robbing us of one last taste of very good, and very cheap (relative to Ohio) Japanese food. Bummer. From here it's 14 hours to San Francisco, an 11 hour layover (enough time to visit my father), and then 6 hours to Ohio. 

I'm happy to be going home, having experienced all of Queenstown that I care to experience, but I'm also saddened to leave. Our trip has had lots of ups and a few downs, and in the end I feel transformed by our journeys here. NZ has helped me define who I am, who I want to be, and how I want to interact with the world around me. I feel whole, yet paradoxically I feel as if I am leaving a little bit of myself behind at the same time. I guess that's the mark of a great vacation, to return home changed for the better by your experiences, with no regrets... only a list of things to do differently the next time you return.

My immediate future lies with my home and career in the US, but I feel buoyed by the thought that my long term future will bring me back to the land of the Kiwi.

The Adventure Capital of the World

Queenstown's two major claims to fame are its alpine skiing options and its adventure activities such as bungy jumping, skydiving, jet boat rafting, etc. Apparently under New Zealand law you can't sue if you get injured during such an activity, so it's easy to see why thrill-sellers congregate here. I’m not interested in bungy (who wants to hang upside down for that long?) and it was a bit cold for skydiving, but I did do something called the Canyon Swing.

The Canyon Swing consists of a platform bolted to the mountainside 300 feet above the raging Shotover River. Thrill seekers strap themselves into a harness and then jump, flip, dive or otherwise exit the platform, free fall for 120 feet, and then gently enter a wide arc, swinging like a giant human pendulum above the river. After a handful of back and forth swings a winch pulls the jumper back onto the platform.

Originally I'd planned to do one of the scarier exits such as going backwards or head first. But when I reached the ledge of the platform and looked down into the gorge below, I couldn't bring myself to do it. In many ways this was much, much harder than skydiving: when diving tandem, you are strapped to someone else that more or less handles the exit for you. But in this case I was on my own and the mental battle was extremely difficult. In the end I did jump, but I settled for a boring, forward-facing jump. One day I will return for something more adventurous. For now I'm content that once again I faced a fear, conquered it, and felt that much stronger for doing so.

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Off the beaten path

We wanted to see a portion of Queenstown that most tourists don't see, so we opted to take a guided nature walk through one of the nearby national parks. Over the course of 4 hours Peter, our friendly and amusing guide, led us and a couple from Toronto to the top of Mt. Chrichton and then down again. Around 100 years ago this area underwent a gold rush and the land still shows signs of the sluicing. There's even a stone cottage that used to be a miner's hut, in good enough condition to be used by the occasional backpacker.

The walk was about as physically demanding as I want to get on vacation, but it was great fun. My only regret is that the photos didn't turn out  so well.

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Helicopter Flight / Winery Tour

Our last activity in Queenstown was a helicopter wine tour. We were picked up around noon and taken to the airport where we boarded a helicopter with 4 other people. Normally we would have landed on the Remarkables to take some pictures but it was a bit windy, so we landed on Queenstown Hill instead. It wasn't nearly as cool as a mountain landing but the vantage point was still awesome. Then we boarded the helicopter again and were dropped off just above the Shotover River where we were picked up by a tour bus to visit two local wineries for wine tastings and lunch.

Central Otago is a very young wine region, but it is the fastest growing one in New Zealand. Pinot Noir is the most commonly produced wine in this area, followed by Riesling. I didn't really care for the reds we sampled but the whites (the Riesling and a Pinot Gris) were quite nice.

In the end, this tour wasn't exactly what we had expected. The helicopter flight was very short and we weren’t really prepared for (or interested in) riding a tour bus with a bunch of other tourists. It perfectly mirrors our experience in Queenstown though: scenic, yet not quite what we’d hoped for and a bit of a letdown in the end.

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We've been in Queenstown for 3 days now. Our B&B sits high on a hill just outside the city and the location affords us a fantastic view. From our balcony we can look to the right and see the deep blues of Lake Wakatipu and the lights of the town center; to the left we see the craggy Remarkables mountain range. (We're told that the Remarkables is one of only two ranges that runs true North to South, but I haven't bothered to confirm that.)

Queenstown is much smaller than I'd expected and has only ~10,000 residents, with perhaps the same number of transient workers to support the busy ski season and summer season. It's certainly a tourist town with all the pros and cons that entails: there are tons of little shops and great restaurants, but there are also lots of other people (tourists, yuck :) browsing those stores and eating in those restaurants. It actually isn't bad now, but I'd hate to be here during peak times.

Sadly, we haven't formed the same emotional connection to Queenstown that we did to Christchurch. The alpine scenery is beautiful, and the journey here was mind blowing, but we just don't feel inspired here. There are fewer people here than Christchurch, and less shops, and less traffic, and yet we find ourselves wistfully remembering the Langdon House B&B, the Avon River running through downtown, and the welcoming Kiwi spirit. Maybe we're just in sensory overload from an eventful trip, or maybe Queenstown just isn't what we were looking for in New Zealand.

It's getting late, and my wife just hinted that it was time for me to wrap up the laptop for the evening, so for now I'll just post some pictures from our B&B and from our walks around town. Tomorrow morning, before leaving for the airport, I'll briefly share photos from some of the activities we enjoyed in Queenstown: the Canyon Swing, a nature walk and a helicopter flight/winery tour.

Until then, there's one last sleep in the land of the Kiwi…

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Without warning the snow cover from last night's storm vanishes, revealing amber swaths of the tussock grassland dominating this portion of the Otago region. Otago experiences the most drastic temperature swings in the country, and apparently the combination of blistering summers and bone-chilling winters constitutes ideal wine country. We pass by a number of small wineries in small pockets of flatland between the hills. We don't stop for a tour, however, as we've booked a helicopter winery tour in Queenstown.

Perhaps the most striking feature of this area is its raw, untouched appearance. For mile upon mile the only sign of man is the road, an occasional telephone or electricity pole, and the rare motorist. Only 1 million people live on the South Island, and nearly half of those are in the Christchurch area. We can see the reality of those numbers reflected back at us from each passing mile of undeveloped land. And when we do come across a small settlement it is rarely more than a small eatery selling snacks, wool clothing and maybe fuel. The sense of remoteness is soothing, and our "real lives" are but fading memories.

As we get closer to Queenstown the mountains spring up around us like shoots of grass from the forest floor. Gone are the foothills of a few hours ago, replaced by the white-capped tips that make this region a premier skiing destination in the winter. I feel my mind going numb from the beauty, and I struggle to make sense of an infinite sequence of landscapes, each more moving than the last. The land here is like one filter after another, each one stripping away layer upon layer of stress, worry, doubt and negativity, leaving me feeling cleansed and whole.

We're in the outskirts of Queenstown now. It's gorgeous, but gone is the remoteness from before, replaced by the hustle and bustle you would expect from a world-class vacation destination. We're a bit turned off by the amount of people, but even here the commercialism remains in check by zoning laws aimed at striking a balance between man and nature. Refreshed from our drive through Heaven's backyard, we check into our last B&B and settle in for our last 4 days in New Zealand.

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The winter part…

Unfortunately, our Wednesday night star gazing tour is canceled due to weather. It isn't a huge surprise, as the cloud cover had been steadily mounting ever since our arrival at the lake. To be truthful, I'm not devastated. In fact, I'm downright pleased that I'll be getting a refund. Perhaps NZ feels sorry for my loss in Auckland and is trying to set me one step closer to the black :) We turn in early, planning to wake up for some sunrise shots of the lake.

After a surprisingly decent night's sleep (for a motel bed) we awake around 6:00am. I look out the window, hoping to see brilliant streaks of red streaming across the early morning sky above the lake. That's decidedly not what I see. What I do see is snow covering the field, the trees, and the cars in the parking lot. We are prepared for cold weather in the low 40s. But I am not prepared, mentally or in terms of clothing and equipment, for SNOW. I don’t hate snow, but I do hate being ambushed by the evil white powder whilst on vacation.

We bundle up as best we can and head out for our photo shoot, but with disappointing results. The thick clouds prevent any good sunrise pictures and my creative instincts are dulled by the chill. In addition, the weather forces us to skip our drive to a nearby lookout up in the mountains. I get a few decent shots, but for the most part I'll have to be satisfied with the ones I took yesterday upon our arrival.

Fresh snow is starting to fall now, so we decide to pack up and leave Tekapo early lest we encounter bad weather on the road to Queenstown. After a quick breakfast we clear the car with an improvised snow scraper, load up our stuff (this hotel had a safe, so no couch cushion mistakes here) and continue to the south.

… and the wonderland part

I am surprised to find that the roads are devoid of snow and completely passable. Even better, the newly arriving snow tapers off a few kilometers south of Tekapo; my fears of a fierce winter storm appear ungrounded.

It is equal parts breathtaking and surreal to witness an entire landscape transform, overnight, from lush grassland to white plains. Everything except the road is covered in white powder. Yesterday the ground was green and brown; today it is white. Yesterday the mountains were brown with white caps; today they are totally white. Even the sky is completely white, a seamless mass of clouds stretching as far as the eye can see. Silence looms over us as the crisp, cool air muffles bird calls and engine noises of the rare passing motorist.

We head deeper into the rabbit hole and discover we've only scratched the surface of this winter wonderland. The clouds have mostly lifted now, revealing a bright blue sky that adds sharp contrast to the otherwise white landscape. At one point we pass between the peaks of two all-white mountains. I look down to the right, at the snow-covered flatland between them, and I can swear I'm driving through the desert, only with white sand instead of yellow. I lack the words to describe the experience, but it was moving.

And then out of nowhere, as quickly as it had come, the winter wonderland was no more. We were entering the Mackenzie District which would thrill us in its own unique way as we continued our trek to Queenstown...

Click here for more photos of the road to Queenstown

The drive from Christchurch took close to 5 hours. At first we make great time through the Canterbury Plains, clocking in at about 110km/hr. Straight and narrow makes for boring, but quick, travel. Eventually the road turns inland and we begin heading west through little townships like Geraldine, Tapas and Twizel. Unfortunately we don't have time to visit Dunedin, the heart of the southland founded by the Scots roughly 150 years ago. Yet one more reason to return, I suppose.

Passing through Geraldine the landscape begins to grow into mole hills, then foot hills, and then finally hills proper. The ground is still a vibrant green but we see evidence of a rockier geology, the influence of Mount Cook and its kin located towards the center of the South Island. Our progress is slower now, frequently interrupted by impromptu photography sessions of one striking landscape after another.

This is lake country, where vast pools of turquoise glacier water twinkle beneath the late afternoon sun. There are so few people here that we can pull over and spend 15 minutes taking photos, and see only one or two cars pass by in either direction. Unfortunately our photos don't capture the full glorious splendor of the vistas we witness, and I have to wonder if the experience is just too grand to fit into two dimensions. Some things must be experienced first hand.

And then, after yet another sharp bend in the mountain road, Lake Tekapo lies before us. A large glacier-fed lake at the base of Mount Cook, it is a common stopping point for travelers heading South to Queenstown, the fiordlands or the southern Otago region (or headed North to Christchurch). A small town has grown up along the highway offering a few motel rooms, a handful of restaurants, some overpriced souvenir shops and a much-needed petrol station. We get checked into our room, a prison cell compared to our 5-star luxury B&B experiences, but our private balcony affords us a fantastic view of the lake. It will be just fine for one night.

After chucking our baggage into the room we head down to the water's edge and take photos amongst the rocky outcroppings. The lake is absolutely splendid and the weather is superb, crisp and clear with great visibility. It’s cold here though, so we soon decide to head in, get warm, and rest up in preparation of our star gazing tour later in the evening.

Tekapo is our first real brush with the fabled beauty of the South Island. It leaves us simultaneously awed and hungry for more.

Click here for more photos from Lake Tekapo

I'm currently sitting on the covered patio of a roadside café in the small town of Ashburton, roughly 73 kilometers south of Christchurch. I just finished a tasty BLT sandwich and I’m enjoying one of New Zealand’s finest pleasures, a Coca-Cola in a glass bottle. Bliss.

Our last morning in Christchurch was pleasant. Another pair of guests arrived at the B&B last night, so for the first time this trip we had company during the morning meal: a Belgian neurologist and his newlywed bride, a head hunter. They told us that Belgium has been without a functioning government for over 100 days now… something about two different political factions that can’t seem to get along, leaving the country in a state of transition. Sounds like a perfect time for a vacation to me!

On the way out of town we stopped by a scrapbooking store for Melody. Yes, the sickness is spreading over here as well. Fortunately they didn't have much NZ-themed stuff, so the impact on my wallet wasn't too bad :)

The drive has been very easy so far, boring even. We're travelling through the Canterbury Plains, a region of incredibly flat grassland that stretches from the western Alps to the ocean on the eastern side of the South Island. A lot of NZ's sheep farms exist here in the plains so we have finally seen evidence of the famed "3 sheep for every person" ratio. As we drive, the Alps are clearly visible off to our right hand side, their snow-tipped caps forming a stark contrast against the blue sky.

And speaking of the sky, there's something different about it here. It seems larger, more expansive, more epic than the sky back home. Maybe it's because the air is so clean, with so few man-made pollutants. Or maybe it's because I’m falling in love with the South Island and my mind is playing tricks on me. Whatever the reason, I am content to sit here for a few more minutes, contemplating the cloud-dotted blue dome stretching in all directions, as far as the eye can see.

Note from Mel:  Maybe he will love it enough to move here, my plan is working!

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(Written Oct 17, referring to experiences on Oct 14, 15 and 16)

I didn't really care for Auckland, and that’s only partially due to the ethics-challenged jackass that stole my money. Driving was a nightmare, it was congested, and it looked like any big city: ugly. After two days in the rural Coromandel peninsula, I wasn’t really looking forward to another city experience.

But WOW, is Christchurch an amazing place! The city center is packed with trendy boutique shops and cafes, all within a few minutes walk of the Avon River’s grassy banks. Driving here is super easy, mostly because the streets are straight and wide and there is little congestion. Even outside the city center there are a multitude of small cafes and eateries, including a fabulous little Japanese place that will be sorely missed.

Strange land, yes. Strangers, no.

One of the most amazing things about New Zealand, especially Christchurch, is how nice the people are. No matter where we are or what we’re doing there has been no shortage of people willing to help us out. Even the attendant at the parking garage went out of his way to give us detailed directions to a restaurant! In Columbus, you’re lucky if they take your money without giving you the "I hope you get hit by a bus tomorrow" look! The friendly attitude seems contagious, and I find it very refreshing.

5 star accommodations at the Langdon House B&B

I would be remiss if I didn’t spend a minute praising John and Annie at the Langdon House B&B for an absolutely amazing experience. This is what traveling in style is all about! They took care of every last detail: fresh water in our room, a private TV and DVD player, heated towel rack and tile floor in the bathroom, an incredibly comfortable bed, a fully stocked guest lounge with complimentary beer and wine and an awesome park-like setting just a few minutes from the city center.

The food and service was fantastic as well: John’s home-cured bacon was a delicious companion to organic, free-range scrambled eggs, and Melody swears that the weird things I didn’t try were, in fact, fabulous. The view from our bedroom window was no match for the seaside vistas offered by our other B&Bs, but the Langdon House was my favorite in all other regards. John and Annie provided 5-star service with the 5-star accommodation and I hope to visit them again.

We just arrived in Queenstown after a 5 hour drive through the most eye-popping, jaw-dropping, heart-stopping, soul-stirring, holy-crap-did-you-just-see-that scenery that I've ever witnessed. The drive between Lake Tekapo and Queenstown heads south out of the Canterbury Plains and into the southern Otago District and the difference in the landscape is immense. I'm about 2 days behind on my blogging, but stay tuned and I'll have some pictures posted soon!

(Written Oct 17, referring to Oct 15)

Two years ago, October 15 2005, Melody and I became husband and wife. To celebrate, I planned a day of activities that would be near and dear to her heart. Not everything went as planned but the day was a smashing success nonetheless. I’m a little worried about next year’s anniversary… how am I going to top a day in New Zealand?

Orana Wildlife Park

To start, we headed out to Orana Wildlife Park. It’s like a zoo, but different. I’m not sure how it’s different, but it wasn’t called a zoo so I assume there was a reason.

The drive to the park took us around the Christchurch airport and into a more heavily wooded area. As we rounded one bend there was a brief break in the tree line and I positively squealed like a schoolgirl when I saw the snow-capped tips of the Southern Alps off in the distance. I’ve seen mountains a million times before, but seeing the sunlight glint off the white peaks was a treat just the same.

The wildlife park was decent. (I’m not much of a zoo person, but Mel liked it).  At least the weather was pleasant and there weren’t many other people there. The highlight of the day was the Lion Encounter: for an additional $15 per person you could tag along for an up-close, in-your-face view of the lion feeding. Basically, they loaded 20 people into a steel cage, hitched it up to a truck, and then drove into the lion enclosure. Then, a park worker inside the cage with us began tossing chunks of raw meat to four very large and very hungry lions. The lions were on all sides of the cage AND on top of it. Steel bars or not, it’s quite unnerving to have a ginormous battle-scarred lion crouch a foot above your head, look you in the eyes, and snarl. The message was very clearly “I’ll take this already dead stuff if I have to, but put just one pinky toe outside that cage and I’m having man-sushi tonight!”

It was an amazing experience. For me, the best part was when two of the lions had a mild disagreement over which of them was going to eat a certain piece of meat. We had quite the ringside seat as they sorted it out :)

Click here for Orana Wildlife Park photos. 

Punting in the Park and the Botanic Gardens

The Avon River runs right through the center of downtown Christchurch. Its banks are host to flora, fauna, park benches and the amazingly well-kept Botanic Gardens. The river isn’t deep at all and a number of companies offer guided "punts" down the river. A punt is a narrow wooden boat similar to a canoe. A punter stands on the back of the boat and uses a long wooden pole to propel and steer the boat for the benefit of its passengers.

This struck my fancy as a romantic thing to do before dinner, so I made a 4:30pm reservation. Unfortunately we were given flawed directions and by the time we finally found the push off place, it was too late. (The walk through Christchurch city center was pleasant though, so no biggie)

Since we missed the punt we strolled over to the Botanic Gardens and spent an hour or so wandering amongst them. The gardens were awesome… Christchurch makes Columbus look downright depressing.

And finally, dinner at Strawberry Fare

To finish off the night we had dinner at Strawberry Fare, a restaurant famous for its decadent desserts. For once I don’t have anything negative to say about the food… our dinners were fantastic, the wine was like "velvet" (in Mel’s words) and dessert was worth every calorie. Service was great, and I didn’t even have to tip! (There’s no tipping here… it rocks)

Tired, happy and with full bellies we made the 15 minute drive back to our B&B. We were soon asleep, both of us dreaming of an incredible day in an amazing city.

Click here for more Christchurch photos.

Next: we travel south to Lake Tekapo!